Jhandi Eco Huts - An Escape to Nature

"In such a jocund company:

I gazed--and gazed--but little thought

What wealth the show to me had brought:"

Time flies…we grow…a world grows within us! And, at certain junctures, life takes us to places, people and moments which leave imprints on our transient existence. We are but travellers in our life-boats and our life-ride is what makes us richer, wiser and fuller from the core.

That’s exactly what I was thinking, tucked on the upper berth of the railway compartment, while travelling to Jhandi a few days back. My colleagues (all seven of them) were excited about this trip and so was I. We planned almost a month ahead and finalized the trip itinerary, notwithstanding the ever-mounting workload that could have dislodged our preparations at the eleventh hour. Godspeed! Finally the d-day was there and we’re onboard our ark. Recollecting and anticipating, kept me awake for a few hundred minutes. I don’t remember falling asleep.  When I woke up, the train had just reached New Jaipaiguri Junction. Hot coffee greeted me, whispering into my uncoiling senses the thrill of the ‘misty’ mountains, which was yet to unfold.

We got off at New Mal Junction. From there onward the ‘real’ thrill began! But before that, we refuelled ourselves with platter full of sumptuous momos and omelettes. Now that the calories were packed in and spirits were high, onward we rolled…leaving the township…following the bends and curves of the “rocky mountain high.” We crossed Gorubathan, the last major township on our way to Jhandi. Our vehicle sped across the bridge over river cheel and up we went along the meandering course of the lush mountains. The breathtaking view of the steep mountain green, the bumpy rugged road, the scent of raw chlorophyll, smoky cloud playing hide ’n’ seek, the chilly breeze, and warm company… took my mind off instantly from the mundane…as if, I was living my dream. Time flew and before long a bright yellow hoarding greeted us – Welcome to Jhandi Eco Huts!

Nestled on the cloud-covered mountains in Upper Lungsel, Gorubathan, and overlooking “the valley of eternal spring”, Jhandi Eco Huts will mesmerize your senses. To someone (like me) who has been “long in city pent”, the aroma of the raw mountain green and the freshness all around, offered a slice of heaven! The resort at Jhandi comprises a few wooden huts, neatly furnished and complete with all basic amenities we’re acquainted with. So, on one hand we had a super comfy almost home-stay experience and on the other, once we stepped outside the resort premises, we were fascinated with the virgin beauty of the locale. What more could you ask for?

Before we’re there, I read that the location of Jhandi Eco Huts is unique due to the fact that it offers a scenic view of both Mt. Kanchenjunga and Teesta basin. One could see the Dooars and the Nathu La range from Jhandi on a clear day. So, I was brimming with excitement. Sadly, not everything you ask for gets sanctioned by the wish-master! During our stay there for 2.5 days thick fog and cloud cover deprived us from the heavenly view the place is known for and we had to console ourselves that ‘next time’ we would get lucky! Yes, I am pretty much sure that I will visit Jhandi Eco Huts again sometime soon…that place has got a hold over me.

Food is an intrinsic part of our existence and if you’re a Bengali that sums up the very reason why we’re typified in media for our spontaneous overflow of gastronomic indulgence. The food fair at Jhandi Eco Huts simply spoiled our taste buds. Even the simplest boiled rice with crispy potato fry and local vegetables tasted no less than a star-rated continental dish. I guess some part of the credit goes to the overall ambience of that magical retreat. Humble, gracious, delightfully funny, attentive, honest, friendly and most importantly a perfect host – the employees and attendants of Jhandi Eco Huts won our hearts.

To our delight Mr. Rajen Pradhan, the owner, joined us for an early evening conversation sharing his vivid experiences as – a wildlife photographer cum independent video film maker, an animal behavior specialist, a sustainable development trainer and consultant. By the way, he is also the district correspondent for a leading media group. Not every day you would meet a person as talented as him! Inspired and motivated…yes, that’s what we were after meeting Mr. Pradhan. I will remember his warm hospitality, humbleness and insightful discourse for a long time. He arranged a bon-fire especially for us. Thanks to him, that evening was simply magical!

During our stay at Jhandi Eco Huts, we went for a sight-seeing trip to Lava. It was my first time in Lava and I returned with somewhat mixed feelings about the place. On one hand you’ll be awed looking at the towering Monastery (Kagyu Thekchen Ling Monastery) with its squeaky clean ambience and the panoramic view of Lava city from there; on the opposite side there’s cramped up shacks lining the winding road leading up to Lava Bazaar (marketplace). The place looked too crowded and commoditized.

Every good thing must come to an end…so was our stay at Jhandi Eco Huts. On our way back to New Mal Junction for homeward journey, we went on a sight-seeing spree…briefly touching bases at upper Fagu Tea Garden, Samsing, Sakham Forest, Suntaley Khola (hanging bridge & the Bhutan Hills viewpoint) and Chalsa. As our vehicle sped through countless tea gardens on a sun-kissed Sunday afternoon, I could still hear the mountain’s call, the cricket’s call “and oh, the call of the sky!”

[Photo courtesy: Swarup Kumar Paul, Sandipa Roy, Monishankar Das & yours truly]

Tajpur Beach – An Enchanting Escapade

I’ll say it again and again and again “I travel not to escape life but for life not to escape me”

I want to make memories all over the world, although may not be possible in one lifetime; I will try and never stop trying. “For the seas call and the stars call, and oh, the call of the sky!”

My latest travel destination was Tajpur, a seafront in East Medinipur district of West Bengal, India, only 170 Kilometres from my home in Kolkata and a 3-4 hours drive from the maddening urban cacophony I grew up with.

Location of Tajpur Beach

Sometimes I prefer to travel alone, but most often I travel with a partner or two, but rarely in groups. I believe travelling with partner(s) with whom I can connect on a mental level, even to some extent, share and understand each other’s interests and mindsets helps to make the journey complete. Enjoying the nature’s bounty all by yourself is good but if you have someone, travelling with you, to share your happiness of experiencing the sights and sounds of the natural world, the pleasure multiplies. At least I think so. This time it was my dear friend Anjan, a very gifted person with a penchant for poetry and Tagore’s songs, who agreed to come with me to Tajpur.

As the bus we’re travelling left the freshly tarred city road and rolled along the national highway crossing every bend and turn, I felt excited and ready for the fun time at the beach. And, my wait wasn't for too long. We got down at Balisai (bus stop between Chawalkhola and Ramnagar, on the Kolkata-Digha bus route) after travelling on road for nearly 4 hours. 

The poetry of earth is never dead @ Tajpur Beach

A rented cab took us to Tajpur Nature Camp our destination for the next 2 days in just over 20 minutes. The journey from Balisai to Tajpur itself offered abundant natural scenery for us to enjoy. You have to drive along a narrow (part-mettled) road, built on an embankment separating huge tracts of farmlands and water-bodies (probably used for pisciculture).

Tajpur Nature Camp offered good hospitality and the food was delicious and healthy. Yes, let me start with the food… obviously like most Bengalis, it’s my weakness! A full course lunch comprise of rice, fries (5 types, as in typical Bengali food fare), veg & non-veg (fish/meat/eggs, as per preference) dishes, sweet dish and dessert (payasam), cooked with inimitable Bengali kitchen- spices, will certainly remind you of home-cooked food. Such heavenly food in the middle of lonely sea front miles from the nearest locality! What more would you want? I savoured every single dish to the last bite. Tea time snacks (Chicken pakodas) and dinner (Mutton kassa and roti) was finger-licking good.

Tajpur Nature Camp & Beach front

During our stay we ventured out during early evenings and stayed till late inside the shacks lining the beach sipping hot tea, fries, coconut water or the occasional beer. The food and drinks, the dark shadows of the beach, the starry firmament above, the sound of the rolling waves, dim lights inside the shack and the pleasant sea breeze, all helped building up a reflective ambience. The occasional intrusion of civilization from ringing cell phones couldn't be helped with, otherwise, I felt like spending the whole night on the hammock, inside the shack, enjoying moonshine kissing the sea waves!

Sunrise from Tajpur Beach

View from Tajpur Beach with Mandarmoni seen from a distance

The Estuary (mohona) at Tajpur, the beach teeming with red crabs

Sunset from Tajpur Beach

Nature's Child 

Swing, swing, up to the sky

If you compare Tajpur with neighbouring sea beaches of Mandarmani (which by the way is visible from Tajpur beach), Digha and Udaipur, you’ll find Tajpur beach to be quieter and cleaner than the other two. Less human footprint equals less pollution and more raw beauty to enjoy. That’s what I realized while walking with my travel buddy along the casuarina-lined sandy shoreline early evening, on our last day before departure. The red crabs thronging the entire stretch of the sandy coastline reminded me of our trip to Junput, last year. 

Sunrise from Tajpur beach the next day was one magical moment I will remember for a long time. Our weekend trip to Tajpur will remain ever etched in my memory as an enchanting escapade from monotony - from routine, targets, and race with my inner self.