Chintamoni Kar Bird Sanctuary – City of Joy’s Little Secret Unveiled

"Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity for the human spirit." - Edward Abbey

I so much agree with this. Venturing into the wilderness is a necessity for our existence. In fact, I believe that there cannot be a better way to replenish your defunct state of mind after long periods of mundane abstinence from experiencing the sights and sounds of nature. But, owing to unavailability of holidays in a busy calendar month, I zeroed on a place which I hoped would offer some bit of the thrill and excitement of experiencing wilderness. And, I was not wrong. The place which I am about to talk is located at the southern edge of Kolkata, yet offered plenty of raw greenery and wild aroma to fill my senses. I am talking about my recent half-day outing to Chintamoni Kar Bird Sanctuary.

I read about this place quite a few years back yet never bothered to check it out. 
Now, that I have visited this place, I can so much associate my feelings with Tagore's immortal lines - 

"Just two steps from my home lies

On a sheaf of paddy grain, a glistening drop of dew"

About the Place:

Chintamoni Kar Bird Sanctuary (CKBS) formerly known as Kayal-er Bagan or Kayal’s Garden is situated in Narendrapur, in the southern fringe of Kolkata. It is little known to people that CKBS houses a wide variety of birds, butterflies, epiphytes, orchids and fern species besides being host to common reptiles like snakes and monitors and mammals like grey mongoose, rodents, bats and so on. This 17 acre protected area falls under Directorate of Forests 24 Parganas (South) Division within Sunderban Biosphere Reserve.

What to see?

As mentioned above, CKBS will offer you glimpses of different bird species and butterflies. Besides, if you’re lucky enough, you might get to see reptiles. Although most of these creatures are camera shy and owing to their super senses escape public sight at the slightest murmur of leaves which covers the serpentine walk-ways inside the sanctuary. In a word, there’s no specific 'thing of attraction' for visitors, yet a world of surprise awaits everyone who wishes to sip in the aroma of wild foliage and tread among unknown species of flora, just a stone-throw from their mundane city pent.

My Experience:

I had mixed expectations before entering the gates as this seemingly ‘unheard’ place is nestled right in the middle of a bustling suburb. Even as I got down from the auto rickshaw I saw locals thronging the roadside vendor for morning cuppa 'bharer cha' lingered with the essence of quintessential adda on a sunny saturday morning. I was doubtful, whether visiting this spot would be worthwhile. But just after I entered the gates, a wild aroma greeted me and I knew, I was at the right place!

I strolled towards a crossroad (the starting point of the walk) where the map of CKBS painted on a board is nailed to a tree. As per the map, there is one main route and it crisscrosses at several points with other paths, so whichever way you go, you can catch up with the main walkway leading to the entrance.

At this point there’s a thatched cottage for resting and a water tap. Apart from this, you’ll find another board with names of all the bird species found within the sanctuary, for the curious bird watchers and photographers, which is quite encouraging! 

I started walking along the path endowed with wilderness dissecting the open sky above with thick foliage and lofty branches encrusted with epiphytes and climbers, which added a spectral glare of the soft rays of the morning sun. It was a summer morning, just before the onset of monsoon and the weather was hot with a tinge of moisture. And hence, my nimble and cautious steps over the dry leaf-covered pathway offered little help to stop me from sweating. It was surprisingly quite here, the cacophony of traffic was missing and instead the air was filled with chirping of birds and sustained cricking of crickets (even  in bright daylight) and other insects from left, right, front, behind – almost everywhere. 

Just then, I spotted something moving cautiously within a nearby bush. I was hesitant at first, so stopped, crouched and tried to spot the hazy moving figure. To my surprise, it stopped too! And after a few minutes wait in ‘statue’ position, out came a grey mongoose, some 30 feets away, showing no signs of hurry in its movement. With an ‘I don’t give a damn’ attitude it walked right towards me and stopped within 10-15 feets, probably spotted a catch within the bush, and vanished in the blink of an eye. Its grey bushy tail was remarkable. This was the first time I saw a mongoose up close.

There were butterflies around, and in abundance. Yet these pretty things were ever so fluttery that it would take some serious effort to grab a snap. I managed to draw quick shutter on one of these exotic beauties.

A DSLR was badly missed. Bird watching however was rewarding, with the aid of my binocular I saw some 5-6 species of birds, of which I could only recognize - Magpie and Indian Koel.

Walking through the pathway encrusted in greenery all around was refreshing, to say the least. I saw water holes constructed inside for collecting rain water, obviously serving as refreshment pools for the wildlife. There’s a pond as well, however, owing to the summer heat, it appeared almost dried up. Along the pathway there were plenty of mounds (ant hills) and I wasted no chance clicking a few of these nature's wonders.

Finally, I reached the end of the path and came to a halt at the northern wall which secluded this wilderness from the civilization outside. On my way back I took another path. This path was narrower cutting through thick vegetation with centurion banyans and pipuls and scores of other trees with dense undergrowth and towering branches adorned with wild creepers hanging from above. A majestic view of the sun cutting through the dense undergrowth was a refreshing sight no less!

How to go?

From Garia take a bus or an auto rickshaw plying towards Narendrapur and get down at Kalitola stop. Cross over to the other side of the road and walk along the lane for 5 minutes, CKBS will be on your right side. The overflowing greenery from inside the high walls of the sanctuary will tell you that you have a date with nature! 

*Entry fee is Rs.50 per head. Still photography is allowed, for video shoots additional charges are applicable.

Gopegarh Eco Park - Where History, Folklore and Nature Creates Symphony

When it comes to going on a weekend trip, there are just two choices for you, as far as the type of location is concerned. What I mean is, you either select a place that’s choc-a-block with weekender crowd where you ‘party hard’ to shake off your weeklong stress and hit your desk on the following Monday, all pumped up, to face the music of the week ahead. Or, you go visit a place that’s far from the madding crowd as Keats penned in his ‘To One Who Has Been Long In City Pent’… to breathe a sigh of relief from the hectic schedule that you’re a part of…to look at the blue firmament above with eyes wide open and painstakingly try to count the countless stars for hours lying on your back on the grassy carpet below…to hear a koel’s mating call at noon with no other man-made noise around. It’s a pure bliss to tired souls! Personally, I prefer the second type of weekends, where I can be alone with Nature! Or for that matter, get away from civilization (literally) and enjoy the sights and sounds of natural surroundings to reboot my senses.

And, my personal favorites are those little known and yet to be known places which holds a lot of potential in terms of enriching the tourism of my state. I keep looking for such uncut jewels among the umpteen travelogue articles, travel magazines, online groups and forums, which are usually dominated by news of popular destinations; and whenever I could spot a place or two – there’s no turning back “once the voice is heard.” One such place I visited on the last weekend before the Pujas this year is Gopegarh in Paschim Midnapur district - a jewel in the dust, ready to be picked!

To be more precise, Gopegarh Heritage and Nature Eco-Tourism Centre is the place I have been to and stayed overnight inside the forested area in a bungalow (booked online; details given at the end of the post). The area falls under Midnapur Forest Division and except a few village houses bordering the perimeter of the Eco-tourism Centre (park area), there is simply no civilization around for miles. A watch-tower inside the Eco-Tourism Centre gives a panoramic view of the virgin greenery around sans humans! Phew! That’s a relief I guess, you too will agree with me, if you’re equally eager as I am to get away from man-made sights and sounds. In the distance Kangsabati river flows through meandering landscape with paddy and vegetable fields on her either banks. The railway bridge over Kangsabati River is the nearest landmark visible from the watch tower along with Midnapore and Kharagpur town establishments which can be seen near the distant horizon. The uninterrupted quietness of the place gets ruptured only when trains pass over the bridge blowing a shrill whistle. But as soon as the whistle fades away, nature begins her symphony, crickets’ starts their chorus and birds join in the orchestra while dogs from neighborhood never misses to mark its presence with  occasional barks.

How Did I Go?

I boarded the Howrah-Midnapur local at 6.30 AM from Howrah station, which arrived at Midnapur Junction at 10 AM. From the station I booked a rickshaw which took us (me and my friend) to Gopegarh Eco Park (as the locals call this place) within half an hour. Gate 1 (main entrance) is where the rickshaw took us (later we figured out that time taken could have been much shorter had we traveled along Midnapur-Dherua road via Rangamati instead of Vidyasagar University road via Gope College). The road condition changes from being smooth (near Vidyasagar University Campus) to potholed and bumpy as soon as locality vanishes and we entered the Sal (Shorea sp.) tree lined wilderness of the countryside. Nonetheless, the rickshaw ride was worthwhile! It was late September at the pick of the monsoon and the blue sky with fluffy white clouds beckoning the homecoming of Uma (Goddess Durga)… the rustic setting and the mild breeze caressing our sun-kissed souls, only interrupted by an occasional drizzle, had a magical effect on us. The beginning of a long-cherished weekend lay ahead of us, my anticipation grew stronger!

Arriving at Gopegarh Heritage and Nature Eco-Tourism Centre, we were astounded! A very well maintained and decorated park in the middle of wilderness, with ample place for visitors to roam around, stroll or simply sit alone or with a partner or a in a group. In a word, a perfect place to spend a whole day with your loved one or organize and enjoy picnic or group outing. (Day passes and Picnic spots within the park can be booked online as also from ticket counter)

Gopegarh Heritage Building

The main attraction of the Gopegarh Heritage and Nature Eco-Tourism Centre is the Gopegarh Heritage Building, which actually is a ruin of a palace built by Gope King (a local raja or king/ landlord who owned the entire area) In fact, the name Gopegarh translates in Bengali as the Fort/citadel of the Gopes (Gope + Garh). The site of the ruin is inside the Eco-park. A board is displayed in front of the site mentioning that the very place has mythological ties (as per folklore), it is believed that Gopegarh was part of the Kingdom of Virat (Virat Rajya) as mentioned in Mahabharata. Hence visitors are requested to maintain the sanctity of the place! With all due respect we ventured inside the ruins of the heritage building and found a snake pit and an anthill inside the dilapidated mansion.

Our Stay - When Evening Came

Soon after our arrival, we ordered our meal at the (only) canteen, located hardly 50 meters from the bungalow that we have booked. By the way there are two bungalows for overnight stay named– Pathik and Priya. One air-conditioned and the other non-ac. We stayed at the non-ac bungalow. Both bungalows are double bedded, bed rooms are spacious with satellite television; there’s ample space for dining, bath and a private balcony overlooking the forested area. Opposite of the bungalows is the watch-tower which is about 40 feet (with an overhead water tank) with two tier observation decks for viewing. After lunch both of us climbed up the watch-tower, sat in the shade of the overhead tank on the topmost deck and chatted all afternoon.

When daylight dimmed we went for a village walk. Walking along the narrow pedestrian strip, created overtime by locals, winding through thick foliage of the forested area, we came to gate 2 of the park. It was getting dark, so we decided to turn back and made our way back to our refuge for the night. As evening came and darkness descended fast, the whole area appeared mystical and too some extent eerie! For there were no souls except us two and the canteen guy and a night guard inside this entire forested area. The uninterrupted cacophony of crickets and croaking of frogs kept us on vigil as we sat on the lower deck of the watch tower during most part of the evening looking up at the starry sky above! Such pristine night sky with countless stars winking back at us through the ether… I will remember the sight for a long time!

Visit to Gope Nandini Temple

Next morning, we followed a village track and walked down a flight of stony steps through a dense undergrowth and came outside the park premises. It was a ‘shortcut trail’ we discovered and both of us were beaming with sheer excitement of our discovery! The road from Midnapur to Dherua ran along the perimeter of the park on the outside. Now we were on that road and as we walked a few blocks we spotted a temple by the roadside under a huge banyan tree. Locals call it Gope Nandini temple. On enquiring some village elders, we came to know that during the reign of the Gope Raja (the erstwhile king of Gopegarh) a curious incident happened. A stone merchant was travelling along the road when one of the stones fell off from the cart. But he could not lift the stone back nor could anyone else. Henceforth he left the place. A few days after, a local Brahmin saw a divine vision where mother goddess herself instructed her to build a temple and worship the stone as Gope Nandini (form of Mother Goddess). Under the patronage of the Gope King, this temple was built and it remains till today as a holy place of worship among locals. For we have seen vehicles slow down at the very front of the temple and drivers, conductors and passengers alike leaning out their arms and touching their forehead in a holy gesture (the Hindu form of a short version of namaskar) asking for blessings from the Goddess Gope Nandini.

The Best Was Yet To Come!

True! We have been enjoying the blissful greenery with all its sights and sounds for the last 24 hours but it was time to bid adieu. Before we left Gopegarh, there was one desperate attempt on my part to catch a glimpse of River Kangsabati. We walked along the Midnapur – Dherua road and with guidance from locals discovered a village road meandering through paddy fields that leads up to the banks of the river. It was almost a two kilometer walk through dirt and dust but we enjoyed every bit of it…the baby green paddy field on either side…the rustic ambience, the smell of the freshly tilled earth, the distant Kash Phul or Kans grass (Saccharum spontaneum) nodding in the morning air and the river’s call beckoned us from afar! Kangsabati River flowed in her majestic mood…the blue sky above with white fluffy clouds gliding by, the glistening ripples on the river and the silky white kash phul abounding both the shores gifted us a memorable sight, never to forget!

Gopegarh may not be a terrific location for popular tourism but it holds potential for being an off-beat eco-tourism destination. The park is well maintained and security was good with ample lighting (solar lights) all across the park. A day or two stay during winter is best recommended and obviously picnics and group / day outings are also recommended. So what are you waiting for? Head over to Gopegarh next weekend and enjoy your stay at this historical place amid the symphony of nature.

For Booking Contact Details:

West Bengal State Forest Development Agency, Aranya Bhavan, BLock LA-10A, Sector- III, Salt Lake, Kolkata, West Bengal 700098 | Ph: 033 2335 7751 | Email: wbsfda@gmail.com

Online Booking : http://wbsfda.gov.in | Gopegarh Eco Park office no: 03222275869

Jhandi Eco Huts - An Escape to Nature

"In such a jocund company:

I gazed--and gazed--but little thought

What wealth the show to me had brought:"

Time flies…we grow…a world grows within us! And, at certain junctures, life takes us to places, people and moments which leave imprints on our transient existence. We are but travellers in our life-boats and our life-ride is what makes us richer, wiser and fuller from the core.

That’s exactly what I was thinking, tucked on the upper berth of the railway compartment, while travelling to Jhandi a few days back. My colleagues (all seven of them) were excited about this trip and so was I. We planned almost a month ahead and finalized the trip itinerary, notwithstanding the ever-mounting workload that could have dislodged our preparations at the eleventh hour. Godspeed! Finally the d-day was there and we’re onboard our ark. Recollecting and anticipating, kept me awake for a few hundred minutes. I don’t remember falling asleep.  When I woke up, the train had just reached New Jaipaiguri Junction. Hot coffee greeted me, whispering into my uncoiling senses the thrill of the ‘misty’ mountains, which was yet to unfold.

We got off at New Mal Junction. From there onward the ‘real’ thrill began! But before that, we refuelled ourselves with platter full of sumptuous momos and omelettes. Now that the calories were packed in and spirits were high, onward we rolled…leaving the township…following the bends and curves of the “rocky mountain high.” We crossed Gorubathan, the last major township on our way to Jhandi. Our vehicle sped across the bridge over river cheel and up we went along the meandering course of the lush mountains. The breathtaking view of the steep mountain green, the bumpy rugged road, the scent of raw chlorophyll, smoky cloud playing hide ’n’ seek, the chilly breeze, and warm company… took my mind off instantly from the mundane…as if, I was living my dream. Time flew and before long a bright yellow hoarding greeted us – Welcome to Jhandi Eco Huts!

Nestled on the cloud-covered mountains in Upper Lungsel, Gorubathan, and overlooking “the valley of eternal spring”, Jhandi Eco Huts will mesmerize your senses. To someone (like me) who has been “long in city pent”, the aroma of the raw mountain green and the freshness all around, offered a slice of heaven! The resort at Jhandi comprises a few wooden huts, neatly furnished and complete with all basic amenities we’re acquainted with. So, on one hand we had a super comfy almost home-stay experience and on the other, once we stepped outside the resort premises, we were fascinated with the virgin beauty of the locale. What more could you ask for?

Before we’re there, I read that the location of Jhandi Eco Huts is unique due to the fact that it offers a scenic view of both Mt. Kanchenjunga and Teesta basin. One could see the Dooars and the Nathu La range from Jhandi on a clear day. So, I was brimming with excitement. Sadly, not everything you ask for gets sanctioned by the wish-master! During our stay there for 2.5 days thick fog and cloud cover deprived us from the heavenly view the place is known for and we had to console ourselves that ‘next time’ we would get lucky! Yes, I am pretty much sure that I will visit Jhandi Eco Huts again sometime soon…that place has got a hold over me.

Food is an intrinsic part of our existence and if you’re a Bengali that sums up the very reason why we’re typified in media for our spontaneous overflow of gastronomic indulgence. The food fair at Jhandi Eco Huts simply spoiled our taste buds. Even the simplest boiled rice with crispy potato fry and local vegetables tasted no less than a star-rated continental dish. I guess some part of the credit goes to the overall ambience of that magical retreat. Humble, gracious, delightfully funny, attentive, honest, friendly and most importantly a perfect host – the employees and attendants of Jhandi Eco Huts won our hearts.

To our delight Mr. Rajen Pradhan, the owner, joined us for an early evening conversation sharing his vivid experiences as – a wildlife photographer cum independent video film maker, an animal behavior specialist, a sustainable development trainer and consultant. By the way, he is also the district correspondent for a leading media group. Not every day you would meet a person as talented as him! Inspired and motivated…yes, that’s what we were after meeting Mr. Pradhan. I will remember his warm hospitality, humbleness and insightful discourse for a long time. He arranged a bon-fire especially for us. Thanks to him, that evening was simply magical!

During our stay at Jhandi Eco Huts, we went for a sight-seeing trip to Lava. It was my first time in Lava and I returned with somewhat mixed feelings about the place. On one hand you’ll be awed looking at the towering Monastery (Kagyu Thekchen Ling Monastery) with its squeaky clean ambience and the panoramic view of Lava city from there; on the opposite side there’s cramped up shacks lining the winding road leading up to Lava Bazaar (marketplace). The place looked too crowded and commoditized.

Every good thing must come to an end…so was our stay at Jhandi Eco Huts. On our way back to New Mal Junction for homeward journey, we went on a sight-seeing spree…briefly touching bases at upper Fagu Tea Garden, Samsing, Sakham Forest, Suntaley Khola (hanging bridge & the Bhutan Hills viewpoint) and Chalsa. As our vehicle sped through countless tea gardens on a sun-kissed Sunday afternoon, I could still hear the mountain’s call, the cricket’s call “and oh, the call of the sky!”

[Photo courtesy: Swarup Kumar Paul, Sandipa Roy, Monishankar Das & yours truly]

Tajpur Beach – An Enchanting Escapade

I’ll say it again and again and again “I travel not to escape life but for life not to escape me”

I want to make memories all over the world, although may not be possible in one lifetime; I will try and never stop trying. “For the seas call and the stars call, and oh, the call of the sky!”

My latest travel destination was Tajpur, a seafront in East Medinipur district of West Bengal, India, only 170 Kilometres from my home in Kolkata and a 3-4 hours drive from the maddening urban cacophony I grew up with.

Location of Tajpur Beach

Sometimes I prefer to travel alone, but most often I travel with a partner or two, but rarely in groups. I believe travelling with partner(s) with whom I can connect on a mental level, even to some extent, share and understand each other’s interests and mindsets helps to make the journey complete. Enjoying the nature’s bounty all by yourself is good but if you have someone, travelling with you, to share your happiness of experiencing the sights and sounds of the natural world, the pleasure multiplies. At least I think so. This time it was my dear friend Anjan, a very gifted person with a penchant for poetry and Tagore’s songs, who agreed to come with me to Tajpur.

As the bus we’re travelling left the freshly tarred city road and rolled along the national highway crossing every bend and turn, I felt excited and ready for the fun time at the beach. And, my wait wasn't for too long. We got down at Balisai (bus stop between Chawalkhola and Ramnagar, on the Kolkata-Digha bus route) after travelling on road for nearly 4 hours. 

The poetry of earth is never dead @ Tajpur Beach

A rented cab took us to Tajpur Nature Camp our destination for the next 2 days in just over 20 minutes. The journey from Balisai to Tajpur itself offered abundant natural scenery for us to enjoy. You have to drive along a narrow (part-mettled) road, built on an embankment separating huge tracts of farmlands and water-bodies (probably used for pisciculture).

Tajpur Nature Camp offered good hospitality and the food was delicious and healthy. Yes, let me start with the food… obviously like most Bengalis, it’s my weakness! A full course lunch comprise of rice, fries (5 types, as in typical Bengali food fare), veg & non-veg (fish/meat/eggs, as per preference) dishes, sweet dish and dessert (payasam), cooked with inimitable Bengali kitchen- spices, will certainly remind you of home-cooked food. Such heavenly food in the middle of lonely sea front miles from the nearest locality! What more would you want? I savoured every single dish to the last bite. Tea time snacks (Chicken pakodas) and dinner (Mutton kassa and roti) was finger-licking good.

Tajpur Nature Camp & Beach front

During our stay we ventured out during early evenings and stayed till late inside the shacks lining the beach sipping hot tea, fries, coconut water or the occasional beer. The food and drinks, the dark shadows of the beach, the starry firmament above, the sound of the rolling waves, dim lights inside the shack and the pleasant sea breeze, all helped building up a reflective ambience. The occasional intrusion of civilization from ringing cell phones couldn't be helped with, otherwise, I felt like spending the whole night on the hammock, inside the shack, enjoying moonshine kissing the sea waves!

Sunrise from Tajpur Beach

View from Tajpur Beach with Mandarmoni seen from a distance

The Estuary (mohona) at Tajpur, the beach teeming with red crabs

Sunset from Tajpur Beach

Nature's Child 

Swing, swing, up to the sky

If you compare Tajpur with neighbouring sea beaches of Mandarmani (which by the way is visible from Tajpur beach), Digha and Udaipur, you’ll find Tajpur beach to be quieter and cleaner than the other two. Less human footprint equals less pollution and more raw beauty to enjoy. That’s what I realized while walking with my travel buddy along the casuarina-lined sandy shoreline early evening, on our last day before departure. The red crabs thronging the entire stretch of the sandy coastline reminded me of our trip to Junput, last year. 

Sunrise from Tajpur beach the next day was one magical moment I will remember for a long time. Our weekend trip to Tajpur will remain ever etched in my memory as an enchanting escapade from monotony - from routine, targets, and race with my inner self.

Junput - A Forgotten Haven

Have you heard of Junput? Not before now? Then, read along and discover Junput through my eyes! Before, I tell you about this awesome place, let me start with a brief prelude.

Back in the late 1970’s and early 80’s the Govt. of West Bengal had decided to develop Junput as a sea-side tourist hub, but due to some local objections the location was shifted to Digha. In the last quarter of a century, Digha has gradually prospered into a popular coastal retreat for vacationers from across India and Junput, on the other hand, remained in isolation for all these years.

If you want to spend a few days at a location that’s remote and lonely, there could be no better place than Junput. Once I landed at Junput Bazaar, a 45 min bumpy trekker ride from Contai Bus Stand, I could see a distant stretch of casuarinas, which hinted that I’m near to the coastline. I boarded at Junput resort and shared the room with my travel partner and dear friend Anjan. 

[Photo: Nature & Life at Junput]

Now, I must tell you about Junput Resort, our address for 2 days. To put it simply, the resort was our “home away from home”, and I’m not exaggerating! Junput Resort is spread across a few acres of lush green field. What will strike you first after entering the resort is its pond (almost 500-600 Mt. in stretch); a brick-paved path will lead you to the gates of a 2 storey villa “Urbasi”. There are over 25 rooms (both a/c and non a/c rooms are available, with attached bathroom and English toilets) in the building and each room has a balcony, facing a bigger pond just outside the resort’s perimeter and surrounded by coconut palm and casuarinas. You can spend an entire day at the balcony itself listening to nature. The resort has an open air eatery, having enough space for 10-12 people to dine together. The manager and his associates were very friendly and they served us well. There are even 2 resident canines and they seemed more than eager to be friends with guests!

On the day of our arrival (we took the Howrah-Tamralipta Superfast Express at 6.40 am and arrived at Junput Resort by 11am) we had no clue as to where we should head out to. Before this trip we did some research and found out some nearby places of attraction – Dariapur Lighthouse, Petuaghat Fishery/Harbor, Bankiput beach, the famed Kapalkundala Temple etc, were on our list. After a sumptuous lunch we headed out to Haripur. Our guide was Akhtar Hossain, a local whom we met at Junput Bazaar. Akhtar agreed to be our guide and carried us on his Trolley-van (tricycle).  By the way, trolley-van is the chief mode of transport in this remote village, the other being trekkers, but it’s almost impossible to get into one as all are overloaded with commuters.

Haripur is 7-8 KMs from Junput. The place was once marked as a probable site for setting up a nuclear power generation center by the Govt. of India, but later, due to locals’ objection the plan was cut short midway. You could see vast stretch of land leveled; most probably ground work for the project was started and later halted. After crossing a muddy stretch of 1 and a half kilometers we came to an open field lined by casuarinas in the distance. From there we could hear the rumbling sea waves.

                                                    [photo: Haripur Beach]

The sandy sea beach is unique. The reason I say it ‘unique’ is due to its loneliness and remoteness. Not a single soul was seen as far as we could see. It’s a virgin beach!! In Digha or Mandarmoni you would see garbage lying here and there, but not in Haripur! There’s no one to be found! Hence, no littering; it seemed we are in some foreign land! Another attraction of Haripur beach is the beach population. Yes, the sandy stretch seemed overpopulated with red crabs!! We went there during the late afternoon hours and it seemed that it was time for the crabs’ evening walk. Hundreds (if not thousands) of red crabs dotted the sandy coastline...Some crawling out of water and into their sandy underground refuge by the coastline while others seemed busy strolling along the watery edge and enjoying the sunset! As far as I could see, the coast was speckled with red dots!

On the next day, we’re greeted by drizzle and occasional downpour; the weather remained like this for the rest of the day. Notwithstanding, we set out for Bankiput, Dariapur and Petuaghat, total 38 KMs (19 KMs x 2) up and down of a part bumpy-part smooth road trip on Akhtar’s tricycle.

Our first stop was Bankiput. The coastline here is under continuous threat from the sea, and hence reinforced concrete, boulders and heavy granite chips have been dumped all along the Bankiput coastline. Unlike Haripur, there is no sandy beach in Bankiput. The weather turned stormy by the time we reached Bankiput and the sea looked ominous with waves threatening to strike us from even quite a few hundred yards away! But, the virgin beauty of this isolated place is beyond words! A few fisherman coves were seen dotting the Bankiput coastline and off course, not a single soul could be seen as far as our eyes would go! 

                                                             [photo: Bankiput & Dariapur Sea-front]

Next stop Dariapur. The place is linked with noted novelist and literary genius Bankim Chandra Chattopadhayay. It is believed that as a civil servant, he spent his early career in this region as an administrator, representing the British masters of that time. There, he was impressed by the history of one local temple of Goddess Kali that was believed to have been worshiped by pirates and later became a hub for Tantriks or Mystics. Also, there was a widespread rumor of human-sacrifices being carried out in the past by Tantriks inside the temple altar. The famed novella “Kapalkundala” was penned by Bankim Chandra in that setting, hence the temple is known popularly as Kapalkundala Temple. Sadly enough, nothing significant remains of it today! We saw 2 temples at the spot, one was a Kali temple built with local patronage (a recent addition) and the other an old temple, probably of Lord Shiva, being restored. The original temple of Kapalkundala was almost half a kilometer away inside a nearby village. We visited the place and found that restoration work was in progress. Talking to masons and laborers, who were working at the site, we came to know that restoration work had started 2 months back and that they were asked to plaster the walls with cement!! The brick-walled, terracotta figurines (of whatever is still left) would get damaged permanently once, lime and cement are applied on it! 
But, who would listen?? (*sigh)

                                   [Kapalkundala , Bankim Smriti Mandir & local temples]

Dariapur Lighthouse was our next stop. A black and white striped structure stood erect before our eyes rising nearly a hundred meters. The lighthouse at Dariapur is the only functional lighthouse in this part of the Bay of Bengal coastline. Sadly enough, the gates were closed for visitors when we arrived there. (The lighthouse gates open only after 4pm every day). Hence, we couldn’t venture inside or climb atop the spiral to catch a glimpse of the surrounding...Our bad luck!

                                                      [Photo: Dariapur Lighthouse]

Petuaghat Fishing Harbour: Deshapran Fisheries (a Govt. of West Bengal undertaking) inaugurated in 2005, is the nerve center of this coastal hamlet. It’s a place where thousands of fish-trawlers harbor, load oil barrels, pack ice (for preserving fish) and load supplies for their next fishing trip after unloading their catch, which are then sent for sale all over India and beyond. The Jetty is located where Rasulpur River meets the Bay of Bengal. In the distance, the vast expanse of water seemed interrupted by two prominent islands. A local confirmed the places to be Khejuri and Hijli. The fishery looked an ever busy place with hundreds of fishermen attending to their various duties. Not a single person was seen idling. Fishing is a man’s trade but then women are also involved in fishing and selling of the catch, but here inside Petuaghat Fishery Harbour it seemed that it is a ‘strictly for men’ territory!

We returned from Petuaghat at around 3 pm and had a sumptuous lunch with fresh ‘tiger prawn’ curry and rice at the resort. We lazed all evening, while I was busy tuning my world receiver, my friend became engrossed in poetry. Late evening snacks with chicken pakora and tea refreshed us once again and an extended session of adda followed with the hotel manager and an attendant. We came to know many things about the place (some of it I have already penned in the prelude). Among others Sahadeb’s (the caretaker) first-hand experience at sea, when he was young and spent 3 months in a fishing trawler, amazed me.

[Photo: Deshapran Fishing Harbour at Petuaghat]

Life at sea for a fisherman is cruel and at times unforgiving, but then, people here are more accustomed to a maritime livelihood. Even our friend and guide Akhtar talked about his experience in sea at some point in his life. Listening to him was an experience in itself. The betel-leaf chewing man, in his mid-forties, would come across as a lanky figure with an unmistakable rustic accent. But, beyond his physical appearance here was a man with a heart of gold. He didn’t know us, neither did we, yet within this short time he became our travel partner; he put a hold to his day-job of carrying logs from the coastline to log-merchants, for an entire day, just to be our guide! No amount of monetary payment is enough to equate and praise Akhter bhai’s selflessness and modesty. I lost my sandals at Bankiput in the sea while dillydallying in the waves. Akhtar offered his slippers to me for an entire day and he traveled, cycled, barefoot and wouldn’t wear them back, even on my insistence. He stayed barefoot till late evening that day when he accompanied me to a shoe-vendor at Junput Bazaar. Meeting such a great person has reinstated my faith in humanity.

Travelling to Junput was by far one of the best tour decisions of my life. Before the trip we were apprehensive about the place. I came across 2 reviews in a travel forum and both spoke badly about the resort and the place. Even, one of the reviewer went to the extent of calling it a ‘’haunted place”! But, I would say, all of these reviews are bogus. My two pence – You must visit Junput. Once you’re there please travel to Haripur beach. Junput Resort is an absolute haven to one who has been long in city pent!

Photo Courtesy : Anjan Banerjee & Rajdeep Das