Chintamoni Kar Bird Sanctuary – City of Joy’s Little Secret Unveiled

"Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity for the human spirit." - Edward Abbey

I so much agree with this. Venturing into the wilderness is a necessity for our existence. In fact, I believe that there cannot be a better way to replenish your defunct state of mind after long periods of mundane abstinence from experiencing the sights and sounds of nature. But, owing to unavailability of holidays in a busy calendar month, I zeroed on a place which I hoped would offer some bit of the thrill and excitement of experiencing wilderness. And, I was not wrong. The place which I am about to talk is located at the southern edge of Kolkata, yet offered plenty of raw greenery and wild aroma to fill my senses. I am talking about my recent half-day outing to Chintamoni Kar Bird Sanctuary.

I read about this place quite a few years back yet never bothered to check it out. 
Now, that I have visited this place, I can so much associate my feelings with Tagore's immortal lines - 

"Just two steps from my home lies

On a sheaf of paddy grain, a glistening drop of dew"

About the Place:

Chintamoni Kar Bird Sanctuary (CKBS) formerly known as Kayal-er Bagan or Kayal’s Garden is situated in Narendrapur, in the southern fringe of Kolkata. It is little known to people that CKBS houses a wide variety of birds, butterflies, epiphytes, orchids and fern species besides being host to common reptiles like snakes and monitors and mammals like grey mongoose, rodents, bats and so on. This 17 acre protected area falls under Directorate of Forests 24 Parganas (South) Division within Sunderban Biosphere Reserve.

What to see?

As mentioned above, CKBS will offer you glimpses of different bird species and butterflies. Besides, if you’re lucky enough, you might get to see reptiles. Although most of these creatures are camera shy and owing to their super senses escape public sight at the slightest murmur of leaves which covers the serpentine walk-ways inside the sanctuary. In a word, there’s no specific 'thing of attraction' for visitors, yet a world of surprise awaits everyone who wishes to sip in the aroma of wild foliage and tread among unknown species of flora, just a stone-throw from their mundane city pent.

My Experience:

I had mixed expectations before entering the gates as this seemingly ‘unheard’ place is nestled right in the middle of a bustling suburb. Even as I got down from the auto rickshaw I saw locals thronging the roadside vendor for morning cuppa 'bharer cha' lingered with the essence of quintessential adda on a sunny saturday morning. I was doubtful, whether visiting this spot would be worthwhile. But just after I entered the gates, a wild aroma greeted me and I knew, I was at the right place!

I strolled towards a crossroad (the starting point of the walk) where the map of CKBS painted on a board is nailed to a tree. As per the map, there is one main route and it crisscrosses at several points with other paths, so whichever way you go, you can catch up with the main walkway leading to the entrance.

At this point there’s a thatched cottage for resting and a water tap. Apart from this, you’ll find another board with names of all the bird species found within the sanctuary, for the curious bird watchers and photographers, which is quite encouraging! 

I started walking along the path endowed with wilderness dissecting the open sky above with thick foliage and lofty branches encrusted with epiphytes and climbers, which added a spectral glare of the soft rays of the morning sun. It was a summer morning, just before the onset of monsoon and the weather was hot with a tinge of moisture. And hence, my nimble and cautious steps over the dry leaf-covered pathway offered little help to stop me from sweating. It was surprisingly quite here, the cacophony of traffic was missing and instead the air was filled with chirping of birds and sustained cricking of crickets (even  in bright daylight) and other insects from left, right, front, behind – almost everywhere. 

Just then, I spotted something moving cautiously within a nearby bush. I was hesitant at first, so stopped, crouched and tried to spot the hazy moving figure. To my surprise, it stopped too! And after a few minutes wait in ‘statue’ position, out came a grey mongoose, some 30 feets away, showing no signs of hurry in its movement. With an ‘I don’t give a damn’ attitude it walked right towards me and stopped within 10-15 feets, probably spotted a catch within the bush, and vanished in the blink of an eye. Its grey bushy tail was remarkable. This was the first time I saw a mongoose up close.

There were butterflies around, and in abundance. Yet these pretty things were ever so fluttery that it would take some serious effort to grab a snap. I managed to draw quick shutter on one of these exotic beauties.

A DSLR was badly missed. Bird watching however was rewarding, with the aid of my binocular I saw some 5-6 species of birds, of which I could only recognize - Magpie and Indian Koel.

Walking through the pathway encrusted in greenery all around was refreshing, to say the least. I saw water holes constructed inside for collecting rain water, obviously serving as refreshment pools for the wildlife. There’s a pond as well, however, owing to the summer heat, it appeared almost dried up. Along the pathway there were plenty of mounds (ant hills) and I wasted no chance clicking a few of these nature's wonders.

Finally, I reached the end of the path and came to a halt at the northern wall which secluded this wilderness from the civilization outside. On my way back I took another path. This path was narrower cutting through thick vegetation with centurion banyans and pipuls and scores of other trees with dense undergrowth and towering branches adorned with wild creepers hanging from above. A majestic view of the sun cutting through the dense undergrowth was a refreshing sight no less!

How to go?

From Garia take a bus or an auto rickshaw plying towards Narendrapur and get down at Kalitola stop. Cross over to the other side of the road and walk along the lane for 5 minutes, CKBS will be on your right side. The overflowing greenery from inside the high walls of the sanctuary will tell you that you have a date with nature! 

*Entry fee is Rs.50 per head. Still photography is allowed, for video shoots additional charges are applicable.

Tajpur Beach – An Enchanting Escapade

I’ll say it again and again and again “I travel not to escape life but for life not to escape me”

I want to make memories all over the world, although may not be possible in one lifetime; I will try and never stop trying. “For the seas call and the stars call, and oh, the call of the sky!”

My latest travel destination was Tajpur, a seafront in East Medinipur district of West Bengal, India, only 170 Kilometres from my home in Kolkata and a 3-4 hours drive from the maddening urban cacophony I grew up with.

Location of Tajpur Beach

Sometimes I prefer to travel alone, but most often I travel with a partner or two, but rarely in groups. I believe travelling with partner(s) with whom I can connect on a mental level, even to some extent, share and understand each other’s interests and mindsets helps to make the journey complete. Enjoying the nature’s bounty all by yourself is good but if you have someone, travelling with you, to share your happiness of experiencing the sights and sounds of the natural world, the pleasure multiplies. At least I think so. This time it was my dear friend Anjan, a very gifted person with a penchant for poetry and Tagore’s songs, who agreed to come with me to Tajpur.

As the bus we’re travelling left the freshly tarred city road and rolled along the national highway crossing every bend and turn, I felt excited and ready for the fun time at the beach. And, my wait wasn't for too long. We got down at Balisai (bus stop between Chawalkhola and Ramnagar, on the Kolkata-Digha bus route) after travelling on road for nearly 4 hours. 

The poetry of earth is never dead @ Tajpur Beach

A rented cab took us to Tajpur Nature Camp our destination for the next 2 days in just over 20 minutes. The journey from Balisai to Tajpur itself offered abundant natural scenery for us to enjoy. You have to drive along a narrow (part-mettled) road, built on an embankment separating huge tracts of farmlands and water-bodies (probably used for pisciculture).

Tajpur Nature Camp offered good hospitality and the food was delicious and healthy. Yes, let me start with the food… obviously like most Bengalis, it’s my weakness! A full course lunch comprise of rice, fries (5 types, as in typical Bengali food fare), veg & non-veg (fish/meat/eggs, as per preference) dishes, sweet dish and dessert (payasam), cooked with inimitable Bengali kitchen- spices, will certainly remind you of home-cooked food. Such heavenly food in the middle of lonely sea front miles from the nearest locality! What more would you want? I savoured every single dish to the last bite. Tea time snacks (Chicken pakodas) and dinner (Mutton kassa and roti) was finger-licking good.

Tajpur Nature Camp & Beach front

During our stay we ventured out during early evenings and stayed till late inside the shacks lining the beach sipping hot tea, fries, coconut water or the occasional beer. The food and drinks, the dark shadows of the beach, the starry firmament above, the sound of the rolling waves, dim lights inside the shack and the pleasant sea breeze, all helped building up a reflective ambience. The occasional intrusion of civilization from ringing cell phones couldn't be helped with, otherwise, I felt like spending the whole night on the hammock, inside the shack, enjoying moonshine kissing the sea waves!

Sunrise from Tajpur Beach

View from Tajpur Beach with Mandarmoni seen from a distance

The Estuary (mohona) at Tajpur, the beach teeming with red crabs

Sunset from Tajpur Beach

Nature's Child 

Swing, swing, up to the sky

If you compare Tajpur with neighbouring sea beaches of Mandarmani (which by the way is visible from Tajpur beach), Digha and Udaipur, you’ll find Tajpur beach to be quieter and cleaner than the other two. Less human footprint equals less pollution and more raw beauty to enjoy. That’s what I realized while walking with my travel buddy along the casuarina-lined sandy shoreline early evening, on our last day before departure. The red crabs thronging the entire stretch of the sandy coastline reminded me of our trip to Junput, last year. 

Sunrise from Tajpur beach the next day was one magical moment I will remember for a long time. Our weekend trip to Tajpur will remain ever etched in my memory as an enchanting escapade from monotony - from routine, targets, and race with my inner self.